So you have a sixty foot tree in your backyard with a branch that's just begging to be used for a swing. Except, unlike me, you're not an arborist and you're afraid of heights.

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Well - allow me to share an industry trick with you that will allow you to set a rope way up in a tree and get it out after. If you know any arborists, you will notice they look up a lot. There is a reason for that - arborists, unlike most other mortals, are very interested in things falling on them. So should you be. If you're about to throw a rope in a tree, have a good look at the tree first.

At the old family homestead, a swing at the river bank was fastened so high that the rope disappeared forever into the canopy of a huge black oak. Pumping hard. However, for a rustic-style hanging porch swing, you can use marine-grade braided nylon rope or polyester rope. If using rope, it needs to be a minimum of 3/4-inch thick. Hanging a porch swing with chains requires two chains—one long and one short—for each end of the swing. If using rope, swings can hang from a single rope on each side.

If there are any dead or broken branches up there, get a professional arborist to make the tree safe! In the USA (or anywhere else) I recommend you use an arborist who is a member of the International Society of Arborists (ISA) or the local national body - in New Zealand, NZAA, in Australia, ISAAC etc. This instructable is written from an arborist's point of view. Have a look at this related link - I am working on another instructable on tree climbing too:) To set a rope in a tree you will need the following: A rope You need a rope twice as long as the branch is high (ie if the branch is 12m off the ground you need at least 24m of rope). You'll figure out why.

Do NOT compromise on the quality of this rope - your life depends on it. Go for a polyester or poly-blend rope that has sufficient break-test to support your life. The IDEAL rope will be a rated, arborist's climbing line which will have a break test of around 5400lbs or 2700kg. There is plenty of yachting rope around that is strong enough - it just isn't break-tested. Polypropylene rope is also very strong - it's just a bitch to work with. OK for a swing, but not for climbing on.

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A throw-line This can be a commercial arborist's throwline (like Zing-it) or monofilament nylon or even sash cord or string. Basically, a thin, slippery cord that you can throw over a high branch. Good-quality throwline is easier to throw and less frustrating, and not highly-expensive, but you can cut costs here without compromising your safety. A throwball The best throwballs are made by commercial arborist's suppliers. Arguably the best throwballs are made by Andy Harrison in NZ (aaharrison@maxnet.co.nz) and you can order them via e-mail.

They're not expensive, and they work really well. Throwballs are filled with lead shot so they're soft but fairly heavy. If you're a cheapskate you can throw any heavy object you like over the branch. I don't care if you choose to throw a piece of rail or an anvil - just remember when it comes down it can hurt you.

I am not responsible for damage that you inflict to your neighbour's glasshouse or Porsche. A helmet Wear a cycle helmet, a skate helmet, or a climbing helmet. Then the anvil falling on your head won't hurt as much.

A cambium saver You don't really need a cambium saver. But if you're climbing in a tree and you want to set a rope, use one. It saves the bark, and it makes it easier to climb the tree, and it's easier on your rope.

I'm just showing you the right way to do it. I appeal to your deep-green moral conscience. A cambium saver is a rated load sling with two rated metal rings at either end (pictured).

You can improvise one from a load sling or a loop of rope and carabiners, but make sure that everything you use is rated. Gear advice - never scrimp and save on climbing gear. Find the best price for the good stuff. There are heaps of commercial websites. Start at www.petzl.com and work outwards. Put the end of the throwline through the BIG loop on the cambium saver.

Attach the throwball to the end of the throwline. Any old knot will work, but there are good knots and bad knots. Do some internet research! You need a knot with a loop that can be easily undone later (like a shoelace knot).

Throw the throwball over the branch. With practice you can shy a throwball easily 20m / 60 ft. Practice in a place where nothing can get broken!! Your neighbour will not appreciate getting socked in the head by a 20g lead weight! The weight of the throwball will bring it back down to the ground. For obvious reasons, keep hold of both ends of your throwline. Put the weighted end of the throwline through the SMALL loop of the cambium saver.

Pull on the unweighted end of the throwline. The cambium saver will now sail up into the tree and flop over the branch with the two steel loops hanging down. Let go of the throwline. The weight of the throwball will make it fall back down to the ground. Now to get the climbing rope into the cambium saver. Untie the throwball from the throwline.

The idea is to tie the climbing line onto the throwline so you can pull it up, through the SMALL loop of the cambium saver, through the BIG loop of the cambium saver, and back down to the ground. To do this, tie the throwline to the climbing line about a foot from the end. There are lots of hitches that will work for this - research the topic online. Refer to the photos below too. Now tie a couple of hitches towards the tip of the climbing line, with one hitch right at the tip. The idea is that the climbing line will follow the throwline up the tree, through the cambium saver loops, and back down to the ground.

Pull on the throwline. The climbing line should run up, through the cambium saver loops, and back down.

If it sticks at the small cambium saver loop, try setting the last hitch closer to the end of the climbing line. Permanent rope If this is going to be reasonably permanent swing, you can miss out the cambium saver and just set the rope over the branch. Then make a bowline in one end of the rope, slip the other end of the rope through, and pull it up into the tree.

Now you will HAVE to climb the tree if you want to get the rope out again. Because the rope is looped over the branch, it will re-set itself as the branch grows - no etiolation.

Climbing anchor A rope through a cambium saver is the ideal anchor for climbing the tree. The friction of a rope over a branch can do permanent damage to the bark Temporary swing Attach a swing to both ends of the rope, and do whatever comes to mind. How to get you cambium saver back Take hold of both ends of your climbing rope. Look carefully up at your cambium saver. If you're short-sighted or have a long rope, use binoculars.

See which end of your rope goes to the BIG ring on the cambium saver. Tie an overhand knot in this end of the rope. This knot should be small enough to go through the BIG ring but too big to go through the SMALL ring. YOU ONLY GET ONE CHANCE TO DO THIS RIGHT - OTHERWISE YOU END UP CLIMBING THE TREE If you don't understand now, you soon will. Pull on the end of the climbing rope without the knot. The knotted end should sail up, pop through the BIG ring of the cambium saver, catch the SMALL ring, and the cambium saver will fall on your head (unless you move). Any arborist will tell you that it is quite satisfying to have your rope and cambium saver at the bottom of the tree.

Your throwball gets stuck in the cambium saver ring and won't come down Solution: jiggle the throwline until it drops. If all else fails, you may have to climb and get it out. The small loop of the cambium saver goes through the big one Solution: You're climbing for sure! You pull your climbing line or throwline out of the cambium saver, but leave it in the tree Solution: see above You pull the wrong end of your climbing rope when retrieving the cambium saver' Solution: see above CONCLUSION Best you learn to climb trees, 'cos sooner or later you'll have to! BIG DISCLAIMER Climbing trees places you in mortal danger if you climb high enough and without suitable safety equipment. Please research tree climbing on the internet. There are recreational tree climbing clubs that can teach you to climb (e.g.

Tree Climbers International). Please put your life in danger in a responsible fashion'. Sorry I am bringing your conversation back from the dead here, but I wanted to tell you that you should return you paracord to the manufacturer immediately. You have most likely received a defect batch of cord, but you may be buying from a bogus seller.

Paracord should be AT LEAST 50 times its weight in gold per foot.P.S. On a more serious note, depending on where you get your cord, there are many places you can get it $0.07 per foot, or 17364 times its weight in gold. (Yes that is the actual price)Good luck and stay safe!Sam. In rock climbing, you're 'supposed' to discard any loadbearing metal gear (ie carabiners, belay devices, etc) if it has been dropped from any significant height onto some hard surface. It is said that small invisible cracks can form, weakening the gear without showing any visible signs, causing unexpected failure at a later time.

The two rings on your cambium saver seem like they would take some severe drops quite often. Sure, you're probably working over grass more often than over rock, since trees tend not to grow on the rocks, but still. Did your training as an arborist mention this at all? Is it a question of materials? Most rock climbing gear seems to be aluminium, what about your arborist gear? 'Microfractures' is one of the biggest and most bogus rock/rope activity myths. Chris Harmston, quality assurance manager at Black Diamond: “I have test-broken hundreds of used, abused, and dropped ‘biners (even some that fell 3000 ft.

(1000 m) from the top of the Salathe Wall on El Capitan). Never have I noticed any problem with these unless there is obvious visual damage to the ‘biner. Immediately retire any carabiner that is crooked, has deep indentations, or has a gate that doesn’t operate smoothly.”Actual tests (summary: gear dropped 200+m breaks at rated strength). forum / Richard Delaney. It's one of those things. Do you discard your gear every time something gets dropped?

One of the pluses with a cambium saver is that (depending on how it's hanging) neither end is loaded 100%. The rings are also high tensile steel rather than the aluminium of carabiners, so I think they're designed to bounce (even though I try to avoid doing that).

Even climbing a tree the way arborists do - on a single rope - is a bit of a no-no in the rope access business, so perhaps it's a 'horses for courses' approach. If you're gonna trust the tree, you're already taking some small risks. I have an answer that would sound like it's straight from the Petzl catalogue. Those of us that need to pull rope frequently use slingshots, rods and reels and even arrows to carry a thin line with a weight on the end. The Line then pulls a rope and then on some occasions the first rope may pull a heavier rope, cable or guy wire. It would be safer to use something softer than lead but a half ounce sinker in a sling shot can toss a thin line a long way.

In small pipe we use crumpled cellophane and a vacuum to suck the cellophane which carries a string and the string pulls wire or cable. This can take very great forces at times and is nasty work. Hi Vitex I was a tree lopper for quite a dew years and I used a similar but different method for getting a line 50 metres up into the top of the really tall gum trees we have here in Australia. I used a sling shot to fire a lead fishing weight attached to a fishing line. I shot this over any branch or fork that I wanted to use and then attached a clothes line rope to the end that I had shot through the branches. I pulled this through and back down to the ground (using the method of attachment that you specified) and then attached the heavy line to the clothes line and pulled that through the tree as well. I used this method for quite a few years and it allowed me to get far higher than I could have done with a throw line.

Strange as it may sound, I found that the best rubber to use to make the sling shot was several linked large rubber bands. The surgical rubber that you can buy for 'proper' slingshots was too strong and did not allow the accuracy that was achievable with the lighter rubber bands. The beauty of this method is that even if you miss and get caught up in the branches, the most you have lost is a lead weight and a bit of fishing line. But then again, I never missed.:).

Been thinking about your suggestion of attaching a throwline to the rope for cambium saver retrieval. There is a problem. WHen you pull the rope through the cambium saver, using an overhand knot to collect it and pull it out of the tree, the cambium saver flips round the branch. If you have a line on the other end of the climbing rope 'just in case' this line then loops through the cambium saver and prevents it coming out of the tree. The only way to work it is to pull the rope through, check, then pull it back, detach the throwline, and then pull out the cambium saver. So there WAS a reason that we did it that way (as i am relieved to find out).